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Bookmark: http://triarte.brynmawr.edu/objects-1/info/152054



unknown Peruvian
 Primary



Textile Fragment with Striped Design

Late Intermediate
1000 - 1450
Cotton fiber

19 11/16 x 12 13/16 x 1/16 in. (50 x 32.5 x 0.2 cm)

Bryn Mawr College
Accession Number: 2000.3.139
Geography: South America, Peru, Andes
Classification: Unclassifiable Artifacts; Artifact Remnants; Cloth Fragments
Culture/Nationality: Peruvian, Latin American, South American
Collection: Ward M. Canaday Collection
This fragment, in appearance quite simple, is in actuality an example of the most complex technique used by pre-Hispanic Andean weavers—discontinuous warp and weft. This technique, in which neither the warp or the weft pass the full length of the cloth, enables the creation of a lightweight, potentially sheer textile, that is identical front and back with areas of pure color. This fragment is likely from a much larger length of cloth used a layer in a mummy bundle, a complex mortuary ritual where remains are wrapped in clothes and cloth. Discontinuous warp and weft, as an incredibly time consuming technique, was likely reserved for textiles bearing great ritual significance, even in cases where the patterning is basic. This fragment bares distinct similarity to several excavated by the Penn Museum from a gravesite, strengthening the association of this fragment to a funerary context.

Keywords Click a term to view the records with the same keyword
This object has the following keywords:
blue*, cotton*, geometric patterns, indigo*, Late Intermediate Period*, Peruvian*, South American*, stripes*, textiles*, warp*, weft*
  • blue - Hue name for one of the three primary additive colors; that portion of the spectrum lying between green and violet, with a wavelength of about 420 to 490 nanometers, which is the shortest wavelength range of the three primary colors. The term may refer to any of this group of colors that vary in lightness and saturation. An example of blue color in nature is that of a clear sky during the day.
  • cotton - Textile made from cotton fiber.
  • geometric patterns
  • indigo - A natural dark blue colorant obtained from the tropical Indigofera tinctoria plants. The use of indigo was first mentioned in Indian manuscripts in the 4th century BCE; it was first exported to Europe in Roman times. The natural material is collected as a precipitate from a fermented solution of the plant, where the coloring component, indigotin, is extracted as a colorless glycoside that turns blue with oxidation. Indigo is a fine, intense powder which may be used directly as a pigment in oil, tempera, or watercolor media. Since the exposed pigment can fade rapidly in strong sunlight, it is rarely used in art or fine textiles today. However, it is still used to dye jeans, where its fading and uneven coloring have become favorable characteristics.
  • Late Intermediate Period - The sixth of the seven main chronological phases recognized in Andean archaeology, generally dating ca. 1000-1450 CE, following the collapse of Middle Horizon empires, including Tiahuanaco and Huari. During this time distinctive regional cultures emerged along the coast and in highland areas, including the Chimú empire. The political entities that developed during the late Intermediate Period were subsequently conquered by the Inca empire.
  • Peruvian - Of or belonging to the nation of Peru or its people.
  • South American - Refers to the cultures of the continent of South America, which is bounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic Ocean, Central America, and the Antarctic region.
  • stripes - Long, narrow bands, typically of a different color.
  • textiles - General term for carpets, fabrics, costume, or other works made of textile materials, which are natural or synthetic fibers created by weaving, felting, knotting, twining, or otherwise processing. For works of art or high craft that employ textile as a medium, prefer "textile art (visual works)."
  • warp - In weaving, the threads that are extended lengthwise in the loom, usually twisted harder than the "weft," with which these threads are crossed to form the web or piece.
  • weft - The aggregate of transverse strands of a textile, woven through the warp. Specifically for individual strands of weft, prefer "picks (weft)."

Additional Images Click an image to view a larger version
Additional Image 2000.3.139_BMC_a.pdf
2000.3.139_BMC_a.pdf
Additional Image 2000.3.139_BMC_d.jpg
2000.3.139_BMC_d.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.139_BMC_f.jpg
2000.3.139_BMC_f.jpg

Comparanda List
The following Comparanda exist for this object:

Related Bibliography List
The following Related Bibliography exist for this object:
  • Elena Phipps, The Peruvian Four-Selvaged Cloth (Los Angeles, CA: The Fowler Museum at UCLA, 2013), 58-63.
  • Elena Phipps and Ann Peters. Pre-Columbian Textile Conference VII (Lincoln, NE: Zea Books, 2017), 171-173.
  • William J. Conklin, "Structure as Meaning in Andean Textiles." Chungara: Revista de Antropología Chilena 29, no. 1 (1997): 109-131.
  • Penelope Dransart, Textiles, Technical Practice and Power in the Andes (London, England: Archetype Publications, 2013), 220-222.

Portfolio List Click a portfolio name to view all the objects in that portfolio
This object is a member of the following portfolios:
Thumbnail image of Ward and Mariam Canaday Collection
Ward and Mariam Canaday Collection

If you would like to cite this object in a Wikipedia article please use the following template:

<ref name=BMC>cite web |url=http://triarte.brynmawr.edu/objects-1/info/152054 |title=Textile Fragment with Striped Design |author=Bryn Mawr College Library Special Collections |accessdate=7/3/2022 |publisher=Bryn Mawr College</ref>

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