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Image of Chimú Discontinuous Warp and Weft Textile Fragment with Geometric Design

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unknown Chimú

Chimú Discontinuous Warp and Weft Textile Fragment with Geometric Design

Late Intermediate Period-Late Horizon
1000 - 1476
Cotton fiber

19 11/16 x 12 13/16 x 1/16 in. (50 x 32.5 x 0.2 cm)
Gift of Ward M. Canaday and Mariam Coffin Canaday, Class of 1906

Bryn Mawr College
Accession Number: 2000.3.163
Geography: South America, Peru, Andes (Coast)
Classification: Unclassifiable Artifacts; Artifact Remnants; Cloth Fragments
Culture/Nationality: Chimú
Collection: Ward M. Canaday Collection
This intricate textile was made using discontinuous warp and weft, where neither the warp nor the weft travel the entire length of the cloth. Rather, they cross their own color area and turn back on themselves when meeting another color. This is achieved by using special scaffolding sticks or cords to hold the warp yarns in place and positioned at the point where color changes, often in a gridded arrangement (An example of this structure, unwoven, can be seen in the Peabody
Museum, Harvard 73-6-30/7320A). This forms multiple selvaged units within the larger cloth, building on one another to form the often complex pattern. This technique is seen as early as the late phases of the Paracas, around 100 CE. It may have developed out of double cloth, where two sets of warps and wefts interlace, resulting in a visual similar textile as discontinuous warp and weft, but with greater weight and a limited color palette. Due to the intense time needed to execute such a detailed pattern, as well as the fragile nature of cloth made with discontinuous warp and weft, this textile was probably produced especially for the act of ritual, most likely in a funerary setting.

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Additional Image 2000.3.163_BMC_a.pdf
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Additional Image 2000.3.163_BMC_d.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.163_BMC_f_2.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.163_BMC_f.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.163_IRRFC.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.163_MBRI.jpg
Additional Image 2000.3.163_VIS_photoflood_Hoya.jpg

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<ref name=BMC>cite web |url= |title=Chimú Discontinuous Warp and Weft Textile Fragment with Geometric Design |author=Bryn Mawr College Library Special Collections |accessdate=1/25/2022 |publisher=Bryn Mawr College</ref>

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